Street Art in Singapore's Little India
This Jaded Empress loves her visits to one of her favourite neighbourhoods in Singapore, Little India, a totally buzzing ethnic district, steeped in history and culture and the epicentre of the Indian community.
Little India is definitely one of Singapore’s most colourful and pulsating areas, a wonderful assault on the senses: street stalls laden with spices and flower garlands, hypnotic Hindu Temples with multi-tiered gopuram, wall-to-wall glittering gold shops and street-side eateries dishing-up divine regional cuisine. In this vastly multi-cultural City-State, it's like being totally immersed in all things Indian.
Anyway, after numerous visits, thought I was all-too familiar with this wonderfully lively neighbourhood, but, er, obviously not. Killing time on a 12-hour airport layover from Australia back to Ho Chi Minh City (as you do), I felt compelled to wander the enthralling streets, even though the day was hotter than a Korean barbecue.
However, as I'd done all the main sights many times over, I peeled off down some of the quieter and obscure side-streets and back alleys, offering a tad more shade. Here, I inadvertently stumbled upon a series of striking contemporary street art, extravagantly large murals splashed across the sides of shop-houses and back walls. In one form or another, they showcase and celebrate the old historic meets modern Indian community, telling intricate tales of diverse heritage and the present-day new. Wouldn’t ya know (well, obviously I didn’t) Little India has evolved as a prime area for street art and Instagram junkies in Singapore!
So let's start with this on Kerbau Road - you can’t exactly miss it. Even some houses stand-out with their kaleidoscope of colours. Especially, one of the most striking of all (and probably one of Singapore’s most Instagram-med spots), House of Tan Teng Niah. Apparently, this candy-hued psychedelic gem built circa 1900, is one of the last surviving Chinese villas in Little India, the former residence of successful Chinese businessman, Tan Teng Niah. A stand-out remnant of when small Chinese-run industries operated in this neighbourhood, House of Tan Teng Niah bears an architectural heritage mix of southern Chinese and European influences. Actually, I’m surprised I even managed to get this shot, as the site is constantly overrun with selfie-seeking tourists.
A stone’s throw away, also on Kerbau Street, funky street mural ‘DIFF/FUSION’ by Singaporean street artist, Zero, apparently represents the sensory overload you get when walking around Little India – you know, all those distinctive aromatic scents of spices, fragrant jasmine garlands, sandalwood incense, curries and more.
Near Kerbau Road and Little India MRT Station, how cute is this street mural? And pretty apt for Little India. ‘Cattleland 2,’ by artist Eunice Lim, represents the reverence that Hindus place on cattle. But of course, this being Little India, these whimsical cows are brightly coloured, covered in traditional and distinctive Indian patterns and one is even riding a bicycle, the preferred way of getting around in Little India.
One of my favourite murals is located on Belilos Lane; a massive and striking offering by local artist, Psyfool. Aptly-entitled ‘Traditional Trades of Little India,’ Psyfool pays homage to the traditional trades once prevalent in Little India. Interlinked sections display typical Indian tradespeople and merchants, who settled in the area years ago, some of whom still ply their trades in the neighbourhood today: the washer men and women (dhobi), parrot astrologers (note to self: must track one down as allegedly they can predict fortunes with their parrots), the flower garland maker and the street snacks seller (Kacang Puteh).
No sooner had I sat down to enjoy an authentic butter chicken dish at Usman’s Restaurant, dining street-side at the junction of Serangoon Road and Desker Road, when I spotted another massive street mural across the street. ‘Layers’ by artist Shah Rizzal presents a visual experience of the hodge-podge of old and new in Little India.
On Hindoo Road, close to the junction with main drag, Serangoon Road, another cutie! ‘Festival,’ by artist Izzad Radzali Shah is a colourful tale told by Little India’s local residents, who express the neighbourhoods’ rich history, culture and diversity through iconic and typical Indian symbols and visuals.
Down an alley off Serangoon Road, close to the junction with Baboo lane, this large, aptly-entitled mural, Daily Delivery, pays homage to the iconic Indian tiffin culture and traditional livelihood - portable meals delivered around the area, carried in stacked metal lunchbox containers - that still exists today. This tiffin man’s delivery methods are recreated in a more futuristic style, a hovering street vendor’s vehicle made from recycled car models. I presume this is to underline a more sustainable transport method, although the tiffin containers themselves are pretty environmentally-friendly.
This is the work of Belgian artist/ designer Didier ‘Jaba’ Mathieu, who has contributed several colourful murals across Singapore's streets, including ‘Kathaka’ as below and some selfied-to-death Kampong Glam gems.
Uh-oh! These two striking murals also caught my eye, but I have no real background information, who the artist is and where these are located. Apologies ("dog ate my home-work" excuses?) but just admire the brilliant artwork nevertheless ....
Okay. At the junction of Serangoon and Upper Dickson roads, this witty street mural, ‘Book-a- Meeting,’ by again, artist Eunice Lim, is actually an artsy ‘extension’ of the three-decades-old real Siyamala Bookstore connected to on the corner. The man in the “Tell the Man” instruction, ‘Nalla,’ is apparently the very same man who runs the Siyamala Bookstore (although I must have completely missed him and his bookstore, or he was out for lunch). Life imitating art, or is that art imitating life?
Then just across the street, with this stretch of murals, ‘Kathaka,’ by again, artist/ designer Didier ‘Jaba’ Mathieu, IMO I’ve saved the best for last. Kathaka actually refers to various Indian dance forms – Kathakali, Bharatanatyam, Odissi and Dandiya Rass – that narrate traditional stories. Segmented by pesky pillars, these traditional Indian dancers make pronounced movements practicing the Kathaka dances and wow with stunning, brightly-painted faces and dramatic costumes.
What mesmerizing faces! As you’d imagine, these murals are selfie-city personified and when an empty time-slot emerged, even this Jaded Empress got in on the act!
What is evident here, is that in the past, sometimes I’ve endured, been bored stupid or downright hoodwinked with what is passed-off as ‘art’ in high-class galleries, installations or art museums. Yet along Little India’s side streets there are total classics that blend right in with this colourful neighbourhood. They make a bold statement in every sense of the word with tales of old and new, all while catching the eye; not to mention all free and available to the masses - what art should really be all about.
Amazing what you can discover on a layover in Singapore! Apparently, there are many more street murals to discover in this neighbourhood, but perhaps another time, once I can tear myself away from all the eating and shopping distractions.
Little India is definitely one of Singapore’s most colourful and pulsating areas, a wonderful assault on the senses: street stalls laden with spices and flower garlands, hypnotic Hindu Temples with multi-tiered gopuram, wall-to-wall glittering gold shops and street-side eateries dishing-up divine regional cuisine. In this vastly multi-cultural City-State, it's like being totally immersed in all things Indian.
Anyway, after numerous visits, thought I was all-too familiar with this wonderfully lively neighbourhood, but, er, obviously not. Killing time on a 12-hour airport layover from Australia back to Ho Chi Minh City (as you do), I felt compelled to wander the enthralling streets, even though the day was hotter than a Korean barbecue.
However, as I'd done all the main sights many times over, I peeled off down some of the quieter and obscure side-streets and back alleys, offering a tad more shade. Here, I inadvertently stumbled upon a series of striking contemporary street art, extravagantly large murals splashed across the sides of shop-houses and back walls. In one form or another, they showcase and celebrate the old historic meets modern Indian community, telling intricate tales of diverse heritage and the present-day new. Wouldn’t ya know (well, obviously I didn’t) Little India has evolved as a prime area for street art and Instagram junkies in Singapore!
So let's start with this on Kerbau Road - you can’t exactly miss it. Even some houses stand-out with their kaleidoscope of colours. Especially, one of the most striking of all (and probably one of Singapore’s most Instagram-med spots), House of Tan Teng Niah. Apparently, this candy-hued psychedelic gem built circa 1900, is one of the last surviving Chinese villas in Little India, the former residence of successful Chinese businessman, Tan Teng Niah. A stand-out remnant of when small Chinese-run industries operated in this neighbourhood, House of Tan Teng Niah bears an architectural heritage mix of southern Chinese and European influences. Actually, I’m surprised I even managed to get this shot, as the site is constantly overrun with selfie-seeking tourists.
Near Kerbau Road and Little India MRT Station, how cute is this street mural? And pretty apt for Little India. ‘Cattleland 2,’ by artist Eunice Lim, represents the reverence that Hindus place on cattle. But of course, this being Little India, these whimsical cows are brightly coloured, covered in traditional and distinctive Indian patterns and one is even riding a bicycle, the preferred way of getting around in Little India.
One of my favourite murals is located on Belilos Lane; a massive and striking offering by local artist, Psyfool. Aptly-entitled ‘Traditional Trades of Little India,’ Psyfool pays homage to the traditional trades once prevalent in Little India. Interlinked sections display typical Indian tradespeople and merchants, who settled in the area years ago, some of whom still ply their trades in the neighbourhood today: the washer men and women (dhobi), parrot astrologers (note to self: must track one down as allegedly they can predict fortunes with their parrots), the flower garland maker and the street snacks seller (Kacang Puteh).
No sooner had I sat down to enjoy an authentic butter chicken dish at Usman’s Restaurant, dining street-side at the junction of Serangoon Road and Desker Road, when I spotted another massive street mural across the street. ‘Layers’ by artist Shah Rizzal presents a visual experience of the hodge-podge of old and new in Little India.
But dig deeper into the mural's layers and there's an underlying message of the importance of preserving heritage and architecture amid the neighbourhood’s fast-paced urban redevelopment, especially the traditional shophouses, and recognising the contributions of pioneers in rapidly evolving Singapore, such as the early resident brick makers. Elements all important to Little India’s rich tapestry of history. Apparently, buildings portrayed in this mural can be found around the neighbourhood, while the dotted line silhouettes represent the space for more things to come in the future!
On Hindoo Road, close to the junction with main drag, Serangoon Road, another cutie! ‘Festival,’ by artist Izzad Radzali Shah is a colourful tale told by Little India’s local residents, who express the neighbourhoods’ rich history, culture and diversity through iconic and typical Indian symbols and visuals.
Down an alley off Serangoon Road, close to the junction with Baboo lane, this large, aptly-entitled mural, Daily Delivery, pays homage to the iconic Indian tiffin culture and traditional livelihood - portable meals delivered around the area, carried in stacked metal lunchbox containers - that still exists today. This tiffin man’s delivery methods are recreated in a more futuristic style, a hovering street vendor’s vehicle made from recycled car models. I presume this is to underline a more sustainable transport method, although the tiffin containers themselves are pretty environmentally-friendly.
This is the work of Belgian artist/ designer Didier ‘Jaba’ Mathieu, who has contributed several colourful murals across Singapore's streets, including ‘Kathaka’ as below and some selfied-to-death Kampong Glam gems.
Uh-oh! These two striking murals also caught my eye, but I have no real background information, who the artist is and where these are located. Apologies ("dog ate my home-work" excuses?) but just admire the brilliant artwork nevertheless ....
Okay. At the junction of Serangoon and Upper Dickson roads, this witty street mural, ‘Book-a- Meeting,’ by again, artist Eunice Lim, is actually an artsy ‘extension’ of the three-decades-old real Siyamala Bookstore connected to on the corner. The man in the “Tell the Man” instruction, ‘Nalla,’ is apparently the very same man who runs the Siyamala Bookstore (although I must have completely missed him and his bookstore, or he was out for lunch). Life imitating art, or is that art imitating life?
Then just across the street, with this stretch of murals, ‘Kathaka,’ by again, artist/ designer Didier ‘Jaba’ Mathieu, IMO I’ve saved the best for last. Kathaka actually refers to various Indian dance forms – Kathakali, Bharatanatyam, Odissi and Dandiya Rass – that narrate traditional stories. Segmented by pesky pillars, these traditional Indian dancers make pronounced movements practicing the Kathaka dances and wow with stunning, brightly-painted faces and dramatic costumes.
What mesmerizing faces! As you’d imagine, these murals are selfie-city personified and when an empty time-slot emerged, even this Jaded Empress got in on the act!
What is evident here, is that in the past, sometimes I’ve endured, been bored stupid or downright hoodwinked with what is passed-off as ‘art’ in high-class galleries, installations or art museums. Yet along Little India’s side streets there are total classics that blend right in with this colourful neighbourhood. They make a bold statement in every sense of the word with tales of old and new, all while catching the eye; not to mention all free and available to the masses - what art should really be all about.
Amazing what you can discover on a layover in Singapore! Apparently, there are many more street murals to discover in this neighbourhood, but perhaps another time, once I can tear myself away from all the eating and shopping distractions.
Want to read more about Singapore? Have a peek at my Lunar New Year celebrations here and the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple & Museum in Chinatown, here !
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