Café Culture in Ho Chi Minh City: Part 2

In my previous cafe-themed chronicle, here (which, of course, you’ve religiously read already), I lamented the loss of some of my favourite cafés in Ho Chi Minh City (or Saigon). But like the Vietnamese, let’s not dwell on the past and instead, move forward into the dazzling future. And this being Saigon, and such is the local obsession with coffee (ca phe) and cafés, there are plenty of hip, stylish and atmospheric new varieties popping up all over the place, replacing cafés long departed and beautifully epitomising the best of Saigon’s new generation of cafés.  Or I discover die-hard local favoruite cafes I should have known about ten years ago, but am always last to know and have to make up for lost time. 

Whatever, new or old, wonderful places I can continue to while-away the hours and keep my sanity in this crazy city. And some of these are so good that I instantly forget my long-gone favourites; just like men.... one departs, but another one eventually comes along, invariably (and hopefully) a slight improvement on the last one…. 

New Ho Chi Minh City Café Discoveries   

Cộng Ca Phe 

Discovered by chance, I just love Cộng. Apparently, this flourishing hipster café-lounge franchise have branches not only in Saigon, but also in Danang, Sapa and Hanoi, where it first originated. Which partly explains my obsession with this place, as arguably, Hanoi is the king of Vietnamese cafés. Sitting in Cộng is like a nostalgic throwback to all those atmospheric-drenched and artsy cafes I used to love and frequent in the capital.
In Vietnamese, Cộng means Việt Cộng, a former Vietnamese communist guerrilla movement, besides the first word of Vietnam’s official title. Thus, Cộng’s cafés present a distinctive retro Vietnamese and Communist theme and vibe – from the military-inspired décor and propaganda poster art to wartime-era enamel mugs.

In central District one, there are two fabulous Cộng branches, but the larger one, on the corner of Mac Thi Buoi and Hai Ba Trung streets, is my favourite. Set in an old multi-storey house, it bears the hallmarks of Cộng’s omnipresent vintage military themes mixed-in with a welcoming homey style. The cute ground floor resembles a large living room, with fresh-cut flowers, vintage wooden furny and bookshelves and worn ceramic floor tiles. Army-style green hues (including worn by Cong staff, who resemble wartime underground guerillas themselves - albeit far more friendly), are punctuated with giant floral motifs in luscious pinks splattered across the walls and seat covers.

 

 

Up the wooden staircase, upper levels reveal private nooks behind shelves of dusty books and well-thumbed glossy magazines.

Alternatively, watch the (completly nutty) world pass by outside on the downtown pavement, squatting low on low plastic chairs.

Sheesh, I’d love this place even if the coffee sucked. But wouldn’t you know it, the coffee is r-e-a-l-l-y good, as Cộng “take their coffee really seriously.” Don’t miss their signature iced coconut milk coffee, artfully decorated with a star motif – it’s insanely rich and quite addictive (mind, the coconut milk ice blended coffees with ice-cream are maybe a bit OTT sweet).

A perfect weekend in Saigon starts here........(er, used to)

Jaded Empress PostScript Alert!!!! 

I spent many an hour hanging out in the above café and it has to be my downtown fave. So imagine my shock and horror, when a recent visit in town I discovered that this downtown branch had in fact closed... yes that's right SHUT DOWN!! There are so many venues shutting in the centre because of the fallouts from the pandemic, like the borders shut so no foreign visitor's can travel here, but this Cong Ca Phe  always was a haunt of young hip Viets, so this closure was NOT expected. Maybe sky-high downtown, or contractors want to tear the building down?  Anyway out of nostagic memory, I won't wipe off the photos and  text as above, besides it sets the scene for the remaining ones...  

So here are some alternatives, thankfully, still standing.. ..

Cộng #2 is housed in a massive colonial-era building, on the corner of Ly Tu Trong and Dong Khoi streets. It’s equally good, with similar trademark Cộng ambiance and themed design, however it’s much smaller and hidden up on the first floor. To access, walk through a ground-floor motorbike lot with grungy walls doubling-up as an art gallery, then up a dingy staircase (okay, what’s with some of Saigon’s best cafés accessed by a dodgy looking stairwell?). 

 

Open a non-descript door and et viola! enter a secret world, almost like a Speakeasy bar, or Viet Cộng clandestine meeting spot. Low-ceilinged and a bit cramped, Cộng is fun, buzzing and usually heaving. Head for the mezzanine level bordered by bookshelves, or equally miniscule balcony, where a small wooden bar counter surveying leafy Dong Khoi Street is one of the most sought-after spots in downtown.

One of Saigon's most sought after balconies....

What with the shocking closure of Cong #1, there are also some great local alternatives actually in my local neighbourhoods (yes, there is a God!).  

A relatively new Cong Ca Phe has  opened on Hai Ba Trung Street (#274), overlooking the frothy pink, fairy-tale like, Tan Dinh Catholic Church - a stunning neighbourhood landmark. 

Small and cute, this café has got the same tell-tale Cong trademarks (staff looking like they've joined an underground Viet revolution, retro furny and memorabilia,  army green theme, etc), but with a more modern sleek design as compared to the one on Dong Khoi in District One. 

However, there's still a lovely homely welcome here, like entering a family's front room. 

Take your pick from three cramped, but evocative floors with lots of nooks and crannies; all good but recommended are the ground-floor wooden counter at the window facing the street, where you can watch all the mad world roar past and the upper-floor open balcony, right opposite the fairy-tale-like Tan Dinh Church for close-up views; it really is a magnificent sight sight and a great spot for selfies ( if you must). That along with my favourite iced coffee with coconut milk....I'm more than happy to go local. 

Talking of which, there's another Cong Ca Phe close to where I live (handy eh?), as discussed in my Canal Life in HCMC chronicle, here,  which, of course, you've already read.    

This Cong Ca Phe, at #336 Trường Sa, Phú Nhuận District, has to be one of the best  and largest branch in HCMC, still keeping with unmistakable Cong "guerilla cadre," army green theme.... 

There are three levels with lots of seating options, whether you are a singleton with a laptop, or a group of pals catching up ...

but my favourite spot is the top floor and open balcony terrace. Here, you can sit with an iced  coconut milk coffee and enjoy, as I often do, the great views across the canal and river breezes high above the traffic. 

The Loft

Another fabulous find! Again, there are two Lofts in Saigon, but the flagship is on the corner of Ly Tu Trong and Dong Khoi, on the first-floor of a massive colonial-era building. Er, sounds familiar? That’s right, The Loft is actually a few doors down from Cộng #2. Which means, having to climb those dreary stairs again – but all worth it.

The Loft have done a stunning job of restoring this colonial building, while respecting the heritage, keeping the old worn ceramic tiles, the impressive pillars, bare brick work and old ironwork fixtures and lighting. The industrial-style loft-y ceiling is hung with bamboo cage lights, vintage whirring fans and a wagon wheel-style iron fixture. All super stylish yet homely.

All the green and white hues, white washed walls adorned with bright art works and potted plants emanates a conservatory-art gallery feel. Sit at cute marble-top tables, the vast communal bench table, or comfy sofa seats. Or best of all, at the table in front of the iconic analog glass clock face, surely one of Saigon’s most Instagram-able spots.

There is also the minuscule, nay romantic, garden balcony, graced with just one stone table overhung with twinkly fairy lights, looking out over leafy Dong Khoi Street. Great views and you get to avoid the over-zealous air-con. 

All this beauty for a mere cup of coffee – and of course, that’s excellent too, a wicked signature of ice-blended coffee with coconut milk and palm sugar, served in a tall glass packed with ice.

Yum. Diet starts..... tomorrow

Furthermore, unlike many cafés, Loft provides an extensive, pretty decent food menu that’s well balanced, east-meet-west and good value. They've just revised the menu, so my favourite dish, stir-fried Japanese noodles with veggies and chunks of lean chicken in soy sauce, or comfort food baked potato is, er, now off the menu. However, new additions like the broccoli fritters, are recommended. Loft's welcoming and friendly staff and casual yet stylish surrounds makes this a lovely spot to dine solo and without that tiresome “solo dining” stigma.

Ca Phe Co Ba

It always pays to look-up in Saigon, as you can unexpectedly spot little gems up high – precisely how I discovered this gorgeous little café. Amazingly, it’s located in prime downtown, at #2 Dong Khoi Street, hidden from view up on a rooftop (there’s another Ca Phe Co Ba on the first floor, but duh! it doesn’t have the views). Take the lift (no dingy stairs this time) to the fifth floor and a buzzing rooftop café packed with practically all young Vietnamese.

Whoooaaaah! Who knew? A semi-open lounge leads out to a rustic-style, narrow garden terrace with cocktail bar, running alongside Dong Khoi and fanned by cooling breezes. The top end overlooks Saigon River and the other end, the showstopping Bitexco Tower. There’s not a laptop in sight – this is a place to gossip and converse, take selfies and admire the amazing river views.

A spiral staircase leads to a mezzanine open lounge and a tiny narrow balcony, revealing even better panoramic views of the river! For max vantage point, sit outside at the narrow long wooden counter.....

 

 

 .... or at the lounge’s window counter directly facing the river.


Anytime, from early morning breakfasts, watching the barges and speedboats plying the river during the day, to flamingo pink-hued sunsets, is good, but night-time is a must-do, when Saigon presents a glittering display of its new city skyline. One of the best river views in town! And judging from the drinks and food menu, a fraction of the price you’d pay at the five-star Majestic Hotel’s rooftop bar opposite and with a more local ambiance to boot. Forsake the smoothies and ca phe sua da’s, etc and opt for Classic Cocktails at just VND119,000/ USD5. Doesn’t get much better than this! But it does, as they have shisha pipes on the menu too!

The Jaded Empress Post-Script Alert! Since I wrote this, emergency!!! Calamity!! This cafe  doesn't serve cocktails anymore. Nada, zilch alcohol... even though they have a nice big bar! There was I, meeting a pal for sunset cocktails and was informed by nervous staff there were no more cocktails.... all off the menu! It was like a scene from Ab Fab... what no cocktails? what do you mean? I had a meltdown. Then a very kind (but clueless) waiting staff came over to me and said they could whip-up a lychee cocktail for me.. but I pointed out that it was a MOCKTAIL and er, no alcohol? Looks like the shisha pipes are off the menu too. A coincidence that numbers were down even at sunset??!!!

Anyway, I digress......

During the near-on decade I’ve been away, Saigon’s café scene has not only boomed, but seen an increase in “Specialty Coffee Houses,” owned by gurus in the coffee business – bean importers, exporters, roasters, wholesalers and the like. They’ve poured their expert coffee business acumen, not to mention, passion, into a wave of new style cafés, taking things up a level in Saigon. Designed to specifically target speciality coffee junkies, giveaways are the serious coffee paraphernalia, highly-trained barista staff that know their (coffee bean) stuff and super stylish surrounds that attract legions of digital nomads. Laptops and Smartphones at the ready!

The Workshop

Among the first to get serious about coffee in Saigon, The Workshop is still regarded as a pioneering stand-out. At #27 Ngo Duc Ke Street, slip into the courtyard, climb four flights of dodgy stairs (another one!) and enter through glass doors. You’ll most likely think you’ve stumbled across an art gallery or work space, but this The Workshop café. This is all ultra-stylish, what with its modern industrial chic gleaned from a high-ceilinged heritage property, complete with bare brick walls and vintage window frames and ceiling fans, mixed with polished concrete floors, contemporary art works, and repurposed woods.

The square-shaped brew bar positioned centre-stage displays speciality coffee hardware – AeroPress, Cold Brew, Syphon, etc –that resembles a mad professor’s lab.

  

 

The name though suggests it all. Designed not just for coffee aficionados, digital nomads, entrepreneurs and professionals repeatedly frequent The Workshop and the mindset is all about functionality. There are small tables strung along the walls, but the bench-like communal tables and open plan, office-style design positively encourages you to work on your laptop – there’s even a glassed-off section for business meetings.

Personally, I prefer my cafés as an escape from work, not one that replicates the office! This laptop city doesn’t exactly induce relaxation and idle gossip, and four floors up, it’s far from a people watching joint. Looking at the somewhat stressed, furrow-browed folk bent over their laptops and smartphones , am almost scared to chit-chat or laugh over the dire background sounds. Perhaps this was a workshop before and the legacy continues, but it sure lacks that unmistakable Viet café ambiance.

True, the menu’s specialty coffee selection is impressive, but the diverse coffee methodology is so complicated it’s like having to study a new subject: #1 select bean method (Cold Brew, Pour Over, Immersion etc and all variations), #2 select specialist coffee beans and #3 select hot or cold, etc. Geez, am surprised I ended-up with a drink at all; my Cold Brew latte was the real McCoy, however after all the explanations, it seemed like far too much hard work. 

Et viola! my cold brew latte

And not impressed with the overpriced, over-peppered broccoli soup, served as a way-too-small portion, nor the air-con which gives the term “chill out” new meaning. Perhaps when I have a power cut and / or need a (stylish) productive working space to finish my chronicles, but otherwise, not my cup of tea - well, coffee.

Shin Ca Phe

Another speciality coffee company, Shin Coffee, is regarded as Vietnam’s most accomplished in terms of coffee expertise, hardware and theatrics. On their website, the Vietnamese owner declares: “I'm a coffee enthusiast and dream of lifting the value of Vietnamese coffee over the world and producing the best possible Vietnamese coffee.” There’s a couple of Shin Ca Phe cafés on Dong Khoi’s side-streets; I graced my presence with the one at #13 Nguyen Thiep. Both Shin’s branches carry an almost identical trademark look: narrow and miniscule- sized, fronted with glass for street views, a sleek long wood bar counter displaying coffee paraphernalia, white-washed bare brick walls and Jazzy sounds.  

Shin are proud of their signature blend of coffee beans from around the world, except on this visit, they had run out. Maybe better for the environment, the rest of the speciality beans are Vietnamese. So, I plumped for Dalat Highland beans made with the Ca Phe dripper method, adding my own ice and condensed milk (VND85000/USD3.60). The Barista guy (that’s him in the apron) put on quite the show to produce this. 

 

 

 

Ironically, my ca phe sua da gone posh has a weird fruity flavour and doesn’t taste as good as my usual ca phe sua da from my local neighbourhood, costing a way cheaper (VND19000/ 82 cents) and served in a longer glass.

My posh ca phe sua da, just add condensed milk

Shin Ca Phe makes a nice breather in-between retail therapy, or a well positioned, chic spot to meet a friend. But like The Workshop, although they know their ca phe, something left me cold here .........and it wasn’t just the over-zealous air-con.

I guess I’m just old school and like my Vina cafés street-side and /or with a bit of character or tradition. However, both The Workshop and Shin Ca Phe are the epitome of the super stylish, speciality coffee houses that Saigon can justifiably be proud of, in its evolving quest for global cosmopolitanism.